1. Kew Gardens

  2. According to Wikipedia, “Kew Gardens is the world’s largest collection of living plants”.
    From the exotic glasshouse gardens filled with succulents and tropical blooms to a stroll down to the Chinese Pagoda, there’s much to see and photograph.

  3. A great perk, if you’re a member, you can get to visit Kew before any of the tourists, which means you could almost have the place for yourself, to enjoy as you please.
    It is most certainly one of my top favourite places to go to and best photo shoot location spots thanks to the glass house that provides the best light one could dream of. If you don’t believe me, check out this Autumn engagement session in Kew Garden we did or this Summer portrait session from the glasshouses!

  4. Kew gardens in South West London tropical tree in Kew GardensCactus and stairs in Kew Gardens glass houses

  5. Richmond Park

  6. Ah, Richmond Park is pretty special for us. We pretty much moved further South West so we could be closer to this place and get away from the busy city for a bit. There’s always deers, majestic stags and also patches of forest where we love walking through.

  7. We loved shooting quite a few engagement sessions in the park, so we got to see the forest changing colours each season and also on different times of the day. We shot this beautiful couples’ engagement photosduring the Summer whilst on a different occasion, on a hazy Winters morning, we got to take some engagement portraits in Richmond Park  for another happy couple! Probably my favourite time of the day is just before Sunset, when everything seems to just slow down and the light between the trees is magical. Reminds me of the Sunset engagement pictures we took one day in Richmond.


  9. richmond-park-engagement-photography-green-antlers-photography206richmond-park-engagement-photography-green-antlers-photography296richmond-park-engagement-photography-green-antlers-photography313richmond park engagement shoot

  10. Petersham Nurseries

  11. This place is yet another London hidden gem. I have heard about it in an article, but little did I know I would fall in love with it! Part cafe, restaurant, part store or events location, there’s beauty at every corner you turn!

  12. Important to note, before planning your journey: check the opening times for Petersham Nurseries, as they always have lots of events happening and it would be so sad to arrive to closed gates. If you arrive here during the weekend, there’s no chance you could take some portraits without others around, but during the week, we actually took a few engagement portraits at Petersham Nurseries without bothering anyone.

  13. You can also plan your wedding reception here, in case you were wondering! And yes, we’re more than happy to be your wedding photographers! I dedicated a whole blog post to this beautiful cafe in South West London if you care to have a read!

  14. Table arrangement in Petersham Nurseries Garden CentrePetersham Nurseries Garden Center Petersham Nurseries cafe and Garden Petersham Nurseries Outdoor Garden area and cafe

  15. St. Dunstan in the East

  16. A former Church of England parish, St. Dunstan in the East was largely destroyed in the Second World War, so the ruins are now a public garden.
    It’s certainly one of London’s hidden gems, as this garden is found between London Bridge and the Tower of London, in one of the business areas of London, as an oasis of tranquility and history. One could easily miss if you didn’t know about it beforehand.
    A brilliant spot for some photographs, if I may say so myself, as I love the grunginess and somewhat Mediterranean feel of it. It’s a very unexpected gem, I believe.

  17. London's hidden gem, St Dunstan in the East Church Garden St Dunstean in the East Church, London's hidden gemSt Dunstan in the East church , one of London's hidden gems and locationsLondon's hidden gems St. Dunstan in the East Church

  18. Leadenhall Market

  19. Discovered this place purely by chance, as I was trying to hide from rain one day. When I got in, I was completely mesmerised.
    Leadenhall Market is one of the oldest markets in London, dating from the 14th century and is located in the historic centre of the City of London‘s financial district. It’s still very much in use as a local market, which I find absolutely amazing.
    Surrounded by skyscrapers and forever rushing business people, enter this market and you instantly get taken back in time. Leadenhall Market has also been one of the filming locations for Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Just saying.

  20. London's hidden gems and photo shoot location Leadenhall Market London's hidden gems and photo shoot location Leadenhall Market London's hidden gems and photo shoot location Leadenhall Market London's hidden gems and photo shoot location Leadenhall Market

  21. Wilton’s Music Hall

  22. Best described by Wilton’s Music Hall own website, ” it is a gem in the heart of London and the oldest grand music hall in the world.” Or, as The Guardian would say, “this vast barrel-vaulted venue is the East End’s best-kept secret.”
    If this is not enough to make you want to see it yourself, I don’t know what is.

  23. My favourite thing though, is the fact that Wilton’s are also hosting weddings (among other events) in this pub and it’s one of my dream list locations to shoot a wedding at (hint!).

  24. Wilton's Music Hall , London's hidden gem and wedding venueWilton's Music Hall , London's hidden gem pub and venue

  25. Pergola Gardens

  26. Now this is a location I could rave about for hours as it is by far one of my favourite places to walk in and definitely a London hidden gem!
    Although everyone knows about Hampstead Heath Park, it seems that not many know of Pergola and Hill Gardens, which is quite convenient as you get to have some peace and quiet and not having to dodge tourists at every step you take.

  27. My personal favourite photo shoot location, we shot some beautiful engagement sessions at Pergola Gardens.  If you’re ever in the area, do yourself a favour and go inside. You can thank me later.
    I’m over the moon to share with you an actual wedding we shot at Pergola Gardens in London and absolutely loved shooting the outdoor wedding ceremony by the pond. It’s a dream place to shoot at, of course!

  28. London's hidden gems Hampstead Pergola Hill Gardens London's hidden gems and photo shoot location Hampstead Pergola Hill Gardens Pergola Hill Gardens Hampstead Heath London hidden gemPergola Hill Gardens Hampstead Heath London hidden gems

  29. South Bank

  30. When one thinks of the South Bank area in London, you immediately think of London Eye, Big Ben, Tate Modern and the famous bridges.
    This right here is the perfect spot for hundreds and hundreds of tourists walking constantly and stoping for photographs. As they should.
    But I felt there must be something more to South Bank, places that are a bit more private (yes, that is quite possible) and different.
    So what do you do when everyone is going one way? You go the opposite. Instead of taking photos on the main South Bank, why not go few steps down and maybe walk on the shores (same amazing view, less the people) or under the bridges which offer an amazing architecture.

  31. The best part yet, during Sunset, the tide goes out, not in, so you could get a beautiful light and nobody would even know you’re there!

  32. Quite important though, as I don’t want to have anyone on my conscience, please be extremely aware of the tide coming back in, as you do not want to be caught in the river Thames. Safety comes first!

    London photo shoot location South Bank Bridge on the South bankUnder the bridge on river Thames in south bank Beach area on river Thames in South bankSouth bank area in LondonSunset over river Thames on the South bank

  33. St.Katherine Docks

  34. Isn’t this place exciting? For years I had no idea of its existence, until one day, when Sam decided to go explore further from Tower Bridge.
    St. Katherine Docks almost takes you back in time, surrounded by old buildings, an inn and lots and lots of boats. Completely hidden from the main attractions in the city, this place is a London hidden gem located very close to Tower Bridge, so why not adding it on your list while in the area?

  35. Boats on St Katherine's Docks, London hidden gemRed Telephone cabin in London, at St. Katherine's Docks St Katherine Docks LondonSt Katherine's Docks London hidden gemsLondon hidden gems St. Katherine's DocksShips on the river at St Katherine's Docks

  36. Fulham Palace

  37. A beautiful open garden, glasshouses, flowers in bloom and brick walls, all in a place less visited by tourists which makes for one great location for a photo shoot or a private event.

  38. And if you’re looking for some diversity, just walk a few steps out of Fulham Palace and you’re right on the shore of river Thames.

  39. Entrance at Fulham Palace in LondonLondon Hidden Gem Fulham Palace Fulham Palace London Hidden GemsLondon hidden gem and photo shoot location

  40. Lincoln’s Inn, the Chapel

  41. It’s always exciting discovering a new location and this one didn’t disappoint. Very close to Temple Tube Station, Lincoln’s Inn chapel beautifully stand hidden behind office buildings and quite narrow streets. But the moment we could see if, I was pretty excited, as you can imagine. 

  42. There’s actually a church that’s in use all year for concerts on the higher level, while below  the chapel, there is a 17th century vaulted undercroft, as you can see in the photos. Isn’t it just beautiful?

  43. Somerset House

  44. Situated on the South side of the Strand in central London, overlooking the River ThamesSomerset House is a major arts and cultural centre in the heart of London.

  45. For photographers, this is the most amazing light scenario, with white faded walls and floors. It’s basically a huge outdoor studio, with beautiful light bouncing off everywhere.

  46. Somerset-House_Green-Antlers-Photography1Somerset-House_Green-Antlers-Photography4Somerset-House_Green-Antlers-Photography2

  47. Covent Garden

  48. I wouldn’t say this is necessarily a London hidden gem, as pretty much everyone heard or knows about it’s existence, having become very popular in the West End. Nevertheless, I think it’s definitely worth mentioning. It is such a beautiful market and trading area, especially during Christmas time, when designers get a chance to show their creativity with some amazing decor.

  49. If you plan on taking photos here, you might want to go on the off peak times, as this place gets pretty busy, quite quickly.


Settings and equipment to use for portraits:

  1. Lens – to flatter your subject use a short telephoto lens.
  2. Tripod – use one when you and the subject aren’t moving.
  3. Remote trigger or cable release- use one!
  4. Shoot in Manual mode.
  5. ISO – low like 100-400 if possible, higher if a faster shutter speed is needed.
  6. Focus mode – autofocus, set it to a single point and use back button focus.
  7. Drive mode – single shot.
  8. Aperture – between f/2 and f/4 for a single subject (get the background out of focus) or f/5.6-f/8 for groups.
  9. Shutter speed – at least 1/200th handheld, or 1/15th on a tripod (faster if you’re photographing kids).
  10. White balance – choose the appropriate preset for the lighting conditions or do a custom balance.

Let’s look at each one in more detail.

#1 – Which lens to use

I covered this topic in some depth in this article, How to Choose the Right Lens, so I won’t go into a lot of detail here. Head over there and read that for more info.

The short answer here is that if you want to flatter your subject, use a short telephoto lens. Something like an 85-100mm is a good choice. If you’re using a full frame camera try a 135-150mm lens.

What a telephoto lens will do is help you compress the perspective, throw the background more out of focus if that’s desired, and not distort the subject’s face. Using a wide-angle lens isn’t necessarily bad, but it will distort your subject and make their face look oddly proportioned and misshapen. Not usually something you want.

If you are doing more of an environmental portrait, a full-length pose, or shooting a group photo, then use of a slight wide-angle to a normal lens may be a good choice.

#2 – Use a tripod

When I tell my students this in the classroom I often get met with a lot of resistance to using a tripod.

Many photographers feel it limits their creativity, and is cumbersome and just plain annoying. If that rings true for you as well – I will tell you two reasons why I recommend this, and you can decide.

First, using a tripod forces you to slow down. 

This is a good thing!

Take time to check all your settings, analyze the light, and do a test shot. Trust me on this – you will get better results when you slow down and think, before pressing the button.

Secondly, you can get out from behind the camera and be eye-to-eye with the subject.

If you want to get the best expressions and build a rapport with the person you’re photographing – it’s pretty darn hard to do that when they can’t look you in the eye.

Try this – get a willing model to pose for you and take a few photos with the camera up to your face. Then put it on a tripod and as you’re shooting, chat with them. Engage them in conversation, and take a few more shots. See which images are better, where are the best expressions? But more importantly, ask your model which was the better experience for them? How was it different?

NOTE: Remember to turn off your Image Stabilization (or Vibration Reduction) when you use a tripod. It can actually introduce more camera shake when the camera is solidly mounted on a tripod.

#3 – Use a remote trigger

Adding in a remote trigger or release will help you get sharper images by avoiding any camera shake when you push the button.

This one just goes along with #2 above. Once you’re set up on a tripod you can also use a slower shutter speed (assuming you are photographing a grown-up person).

AND you can get even further out of hiding behind the camera. This is super important when photographing kids.

#4 – Shoot in Manual Mode

What camera mode to shoot in is your next big decision to make.

I can tell you what modes I use for different situations. It’s pretty simple really – just follow these guidelines:

  • If your camera is on a tripod, shoot in Manual Mode.
  • When you’re shooting handheld, shoot in Aperture Priority.

I would say I follow that about 95% of the time.

So using a tripod also includes things like shooting HDR bracketed shots, night photography, and any long exposures.

For most casual shooting walking around like street photography and travel – I shoot in Aperture Priority. The only exception I can think of is when I want to do panning. Then I switch to Shutter Priority.

Okay now that you’re in Manual Mode, I’ll tell you why I recommend this. As I already mentioned above, using a tripod forces you to slow down. Well so does shooting in Manual Mode, in a way, so they work well together.

But the other thing shooting in Manual does is it allows you to choose all your settings and they will not change – even if the lighting or other factors change around you.

That also means you will have really consistent exposures from one frame to the next.

If you are working with a portrait subject(whether it be a model, paid client, or a friend) it makes you look way better.

As you show them the images on your LCD screen the exposures aren’t all over the place. You will look way more professional, even if you don’t feel like it.

But the other side benefit of this is that the subject will have more confidence in you and your abilities.

They will trust you more.

That could also mean they are more willing to work with you on different poses or ideas, and open up and give you some great expressions.

This may seem like a little thing, but having your subject’s trust is huge!

#5 – ISO

For portraits, you want the highest image quality possible.

So for the ISO set it as low as you can to avoid excess noise in your photos.

Go for somewhere between ISO 100 and 400.

But having said that, you also need to maintain a usable shutter speed.

If your image is blurry due to either subject or camera movement it’s irrelevant how noise-free it is.

I suggest you start at ISO 400 and adjust as necessary. Meaning, if you’re shooting in the shade, low light, or indoors using window light you’ll likely need to increase that. Don’t be afraid to use ISO 800 or even 1600 if you need to. But remember you can also open up your aperture if the light is low.

It’s a dance you need to do to find the right balance of the three exposure triangle settings (ISO, aperture and shutter speed). Adjust one, and you’ll have to compensate by adjusting one of the other factors. Above all, do some test shots and review them on your LCD before you start shooting away.

Make sure you have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake when handholding the camera, and subject movement when you’re using a tripod. See point #9 below for more on shutter speed.

#6 – Focus Mode

Use single point focus here (not zone or multiple points), do not let the camera choose what to focus on for you.

It often gets that wrong. Always focus on the subject’s eye. If one eye is closer to the camera than the other, focus on the near one.

Also in terms of focus settings, choose Single Shot (AF-S) not continuous (Servo or AF-C). You want the autofocus to lock onto the subject, you do not want tracking focus (that is for moving subjects). Read more on focus here: 6 Tips for Finding Focus and Getting Sharp Images.

Lastly, learn how to set up your camera to do Back Button Focus. Essentially it’s a custom setting where you remove the function of autofocus from the shutter release button and assign it to one on the back of the camera.

The benefit of doing this is that you do not have to focus every time if you and your subject are not moving. You can lock focus onto them, then leave it there. If you move a little or get closer to them just refocus and lock it again.

This is how I shoot at night as well.

Because the camera is easily fooled in the dark and it can’t easily find focus, it will just hunt indefinitely and you’ll miss the shot.

You can read more about this subject over on dPS in this article; Back Button Focus: What is it and why should you try it?

#7 – Drive Mode

This is a short one – set the Drive Mode to Single. 

You don’t need to use burst mode and shoot 4-8 frames per second. This isn’t a machine gun and you aren’t shooting sports.

Don’t spray and pray. Instead, intentionally press the shutter when you see a good expression and have good light on the subject.

Taking lots of images will not get you the best shots in portraiture.

It’s been my experience being on the receiving end of photos shot that way, and I can tell you it doesn’t work.

Burst mode often captures closed eyes and weird facial expressions. I received 30 photos (shot in burst mode) of a group portrait I was in, and not a single frame had every person’s eyes opened, and a good expression from everybody.

No – shoot one frame at a time.

Engage with, and talk to your model. Press the button when you see something good.

Be choosy, wait for the right moments.

#8 – Aperture

I could give you a rule here, such as “Always shoot portraits at f/5.6”, but I’m not going to. What I will do is give you starting points, then you need to think it through and make a decision for your situation.

For portraits of one person set your aperture between f/2 and f/4. If you don’t have a lens that opens that wide, invest in a good old 50mm f/1.8. It’s inexpensive and super versatile. Using a wide aperture like this will help you make the background blurry and less distracting.

Do be careful of shooting too wide opened like f/1.8 or f/1.4 if you have those settings. The depth of field is so narrow you have to be really precise with your focus and you could end up with their eyes sharp and their nose and ears out of focus. If you like that look and can nail your focus – go for it. If not go for a slightly smaller aperture choice of f/2.8 or f/4.

For couple’s portraits or groups use a smaller aperture to make sure you get everyone in sharp focus, f/5.6 or f/8 will usually do the trick. Also, watch how you pose and position people in the group so they aren’t spaced too far apart (distance to the camera). By keeping everyone close to the same plane you can easily shoot at f/5.6 and get them all sharp.

#9 – Shutter Speed

In point #5 above, I mentioned that you need to make sure you have a fast enough shutter speed to keep the image sharp. Think about minimum shutter speed you can use handheld (one over the focal length), but also how slow you can go using a tripod.

The tripod will keep the camera steady at any shutter speed, even one second or longer. But what are the chances of the subject not moving during that time? So choose a shutter speed according to your subject.

If you are working with an adult or teen, and they aren’t moving a lot or making large hand gestures – you can probably go as low as 1/15th or even 1/8th of a second. I’ve done it when shooting in the low light from a window – just ask them to be relatively still.

But if you are working with kids or multiple people in a group – make it the shutter speed faster. Start at 1/125th or higher and adjust as needed. If you’re getting blurry images of the person – increase to a faster shutter speed. If you don’t want to adjust the aperture – you’ll need to increasing ISO (hence the reference in #5 above).

#10 – White Balance

For White Balance, I recommend choosing one of your camera’s WB presets like Daylight or Shady. Choose the one that most closely matches the lighting conditions. For indoor window light do a test shot and see which looks best, gives you the most natural or flattering skin tones.

I tend to err on the side or going too warm, as opposed to too cool. People look better with more warmth (yellow) in their skin usually than blue (cooler).

Why I suggest a preset instead of just using Auto White Balance (AWB) is for the same reasons to shoot in Manual Mode. Consistency from one frame to the next. Also, neutral isn’t always the best option for portraits – warm is a better choice. AWB makes neutral.

You can also do a custom white balance using a gray card if your lighting conditions do not change. But you have to redo do it if you move or the light shifts.

Custom white balance was done and applied here.

AWB tends to pick up color casts in people’s clothes, trees, or whatever else is around you and in the image. It tries to neutralize those colors the best it can – but sometimes it gets it wrong and at best it’s just inconsistent.


Landscape photography is a favorite with professional and amateur photographers alike. 

There awaits a wealth of natural landscapes filled with beauty and drama, always changing with the seasons. To avoid taking bland images, follow these top landscape photography tips.

Create Depth

Landscape photograph of Mount Moran

When you are taking a landscape photograph, try creating a sense of depth by keeping all the different elements of the image in focus.

To do this you need to use a small aperture, from f/16-f/22 because this keeps objects in the foreground and background sharp. Place your camera on a tripod (this will eliminate camera shake) when using a small aperture, as less light will be entering the lens.

Use a Wide-Angle Lens

Fresh Green tea fields spread out below Mount Fuji

Wide-angle lenses are preferred for landscape photography because they can show a broader view, and therefore give a sense of wide open space.

They also tend to give a greater depth of field and allow you to use faster shutter speeds because they allow more light. Taking an image at f/16 will make both the foreground and background sharp.

Remember to try some interesting angles with the photograph.

Use Photographic Filters

Single blossoming tree in spring

To get the best possible images, you can make use of two filters in your landscape photography.

Polarizing filters darken the sky and therefore bring out the blues in contrast to the white of the clouds.

Neutral Density (ND) filters prevent too much light from entering the camera. This is useful on bright days, when the camera is unable to give you a slow shutter speed (you may want to capture the movement of the sky or water for example).

Capture Movement

Landscape photograph of the Tugela River in South Africa

If you are working with moving water you can create a stunning white water effect by choosing a long exposure.

One way to do this is by using TV or S (Shutter-Priority) mode and choosing an exposure of 2 seconds or longer. You can also use AV (Aperture-Priority) mode and choose a small aperture like f/32 (which generally requires more light).

If working with bright daylight you must use an ND filter to reduce the amount of light hitting the camera, and this way the camera will allow you to have a longer shutter time.

You must always use a tripod for this kind of shot so that the rest of your image remains sharp.

Use Water as a Mirror

A landscape picture of sand hill cranes migrating over the Rio Grande river in Mexico

Water in subdued light can create beautiful effects and reflections.

The best time for this kind of shot is during the two “golden hours” which are the first hour after sunrise and the last hour before sunset. Put your camera on a tripod and set the mode dial to TV or S (Shutter-Priority) mode. Choose a slow shutter speed and allow the camera to choose the correct aperture.

If you struggle to get a sharp image you can push the ISO up although ISO 125 is a good starting point.

Take Account of People

Happy woman on a beautiful green meadow

A landscape isn’t just about nature; so why not include people?

A beautiful landscape can be complemented by a cute child or by a beautiful girl running or jumping through the flowers.

Remember the rule of thirds and place the person in an off-center position to create interest.

Choose a fast shutter speed if you want to freeze the action or a slower shutter speed if you want to capture movement.

Compose in Thirds

Compose using the Rule of Thirds

To use the rule of thirds, imagine four lines, two lying horizontally across the image and two vertical creating nine even squares.

Some images will look best with the focal point in the center square, but placing the subject off center at one of the intersecting points of the imaginary lines, will often create a more aesthetically composed photograph.

When a photograph is composed using the rule of thirds the eyes will wander the frame. A picture composed by the rule of thirds is usually more interesting and pleasing to the eye.

Recommended Settings

When shooting during the day you can afford to use a smaller aperture of f/22 to capture a super sharp detailed image.

If you are trying to capture movement of water or of people and birds, then use a filter to reduce the amount of light going in and experiment with the shutter speed.

For water you want to choose at least 2 seconds or more and for moving animals or people start from 1/60.

You should always use a tripod for these types of landscape images.

Recommended Equipment

In bright light, you should always use a lens hood to prevent flaring.

In addition, you may use a neutral density filter or a polarizing filter to reduce reflections and bring out the sky.

A tripod is essential if you want to take very sharp photographs and if you want to capture movement.

A beanbag is also useful to experiment with angles (such as shooting a landscape from the ground up).

The use of flash will help illuminate shadowy areas in close range.


Landscapes are a real favorite with photographers and it’s not hard to see why; you get to spend time in the outdoors and be with nature.

Having patience helps, as you may need to wait for the right lighting conditions, and there will be times when conditions do not cooperate.

Some landscape photographers will sit for hours to get one stunning shot for the whole day. That one magic shot makes the time worthwhile.

With patience and some practice, you will develop skill and be able to capture striking photos of your own.


Can you see the shape of a hand in this new X-ray image? The hand might look like an X-ray from the doctor’s office, but it is actually a cloud of material ejected from a star that exploded. NASA’s Nuclear Spectroscopic Telescope Array, or NuSTAR, has imaged the structure in high-energy X-rays for the first time, shown in blue. Lower-energy X-ray light previously detected by NASA’s Chandra X-ray Observatory is shown in green and red.

Nicknamed the “Hand of God,” this object is called a pulsar wind nebula. It’s powered by the leftover, dense core of a star that blew up in a supernova explosion. The stellar corpse, called PSR B1509-58, or B1509 for short, is a pulsar: it rapidly spins around, seven times per second, firing out a particle wind into the material around it — material that was ejected in the star’s explosion. These particles are interacting with magnetic fields around the material, causing it to glow with X-rays. The result is a cloud that, in previous images, looked like an open hand. The pulsar itself can’t be seen in this picture, but is located near the bright white spot.

One of the big mysteries of this object is whether the pulsar particles are interacting with the material in a specific way to make it look like a hand, or if the material is in fact shaped like a hand.

NuSTAR’s view is providing new clues to the puzzle. The hand actually shrinks in the NuSTAR image, looking more like a fist, as indicated by the blue color. The northern region, where the fingers are located, shrinks more than the southern part, where a jet lies, implying the two areas are physically different.

The red cloud at the end of the finger region is a different structure, called RCW 89. Astronomers think the pulsar’s wind is heating the cloud, causing it to glow with lower-energy X-ray light.

In this image, X-ray light seen by Chandra with energy ranges of 0.5 to 2 kiloelectron volts (keV) and 2 to 4 keV is shown in red and green, respectively, while X-ray light detected by NuSTAR in the higher-energy range of 7 to 25 keV is blue.


Give lots of photographers a softbox and they’ll know nothing about using one; but it makes lighting so easy

Over the years, I’ve used many different lighting modifiers, but one of the mainstays has always been a variation of the traditional photography softbox. Along with the umbrella, it’s arguably the most popular option on the market. Photographers of all types use them, but they’re perhaps most commonly employed with studio portraiture and headshots. Softboxes take the fundamental values of light and find a way to shape and mold it. To understand this a bit better, think about how fairy lights, a desk lamp, and ceiling lights all affect a room differently. They’re all different shapes, sizes, and are placed in different ways. This idea will help you get through this article and ultimately guide you on how to use one. But in the end, you’ll need to figure out whether or not you actually need one.

How to Use One

Using a softbox is typically the easiest thing to do and that’s why so many photographers really enjoy them. Essentially all you need to do is point them at your subject. But the beauty of a softbox comes with the angle and the direction you’re pointing from. With that in mind, you should experiment and look at how light falls on people and things.

Softboxes have a wide variety of shapes. The most traditional shape is a four sided box that is rectangular in shape. Softboxes with two sides being very short are often called strips. Softboxes with eight sides are called octabanks. The shape determines how the light is shaped on a subject.

For starters: set the softbox at a 45 degree angle from your subject’s face. Raise the softbox up so that the middle is just above their eyes and point is downward on them. Like that look? Then work with it. Don’t like it, observe what’s wrong and adjust.

NIKON 2019

Nikon camera rumors 2019

The D850 has been a huge smash for Nikon

Nikon’s big news of 2018 was the arrival of its full-frame mirrorless camera system – and the announcement of the the Z 6 and Z 7 cameras to kick off this new dynasty. Nikon had already announced the end of its 1 series of APS-C mirrorless models to a close earlier in the year ahead of the Z system’s announcement in August. It will now be concentrating on developing the Nikon Z lens roadmap – to increase the range of primes and zooms for the new mirrorless mount.

Read more: 99 things you need to know about Nikon’s full-frame mirrorless system 

Nikon Z5

Nikon revealed exclusively to us at Photokina, that there would be lower-priced models in the Z system at some point in the future – and that they had deliberately started with high-end enthusiast models in the Z6 and Z7. 

The big question here would be if a Nikon Z5 would use a full-frame mirrorless sensor – or would it have a smaller DX-format APS-C sensor. Indeed, the latest rumblings suggest that it could feature a 30 or 32MP crop sensor.

Possibly spurred by the launch of the Canon EOS RP, a Nikon executive stated that the Nikon Z5could be on the way before the end of the year. Igawa Yuxi from Nikon China confirmed that a new consumer-oriented Z camera will be coming soon – “a low-priced model similar to the Canon EOS RP”. 

No other specs, information or details were revealed, but this rings true with what Nikon Europe’s Jordi Brinkman told us last year: “Definitely we will widen our lineup… there will be models below the Z6. We will widen up the range to different users and different price brackets, definitely.”

Nikon Z9

We didn’t expect Nikon to announce professional models in the Z range quite so quickly, but recent reports suggest that the company might make a development announcement of a pro Z9 body as early as this summer.

This may well be a model to rival the Nikon D5, with a big battery built-in, a high-speed shooting capacity of perhaps 20fps and dual memory card slots. Nikon would surely love to have camera that would challenge Sony’s A9, now that it has models to rival the Sony A7 series. 

If a new top-of-the-range professional sports camera were in the works, Nikon would want its photographers to be fully familiar with it before the next Olympics, which is being held in Nikon’s home city of Tokyo in 2020…

Nikon DSLRs

Nikon’s hottest model of 2017 was the Nikon’s D850, and demand for the high-resolution high-speed camera has remained high every since. It is too soon for this to be updated yet. So what will we see from Nikon in the DSLR front?

We have already seen the update of the budget-priced D3400 in the shape of the Nikon D3500 – which brings significant changes to this popular model and was announced just days after the Z7 and Z6.

But what else might we shortly see?

Nikon D760

The Nikon D750 is a popular camera, but hardly the newest full-frame option around

Nikon’s D750 has been a well-loved member of Nikon’s full-frame portfolio, and the fact that it’s one of the cheapest full-frame cameras around has only broadened its appeal further. It has, however, recently celebrated its third birthday, and has been overshadowed somewhat by the likes of the newer D850 and DX-format D500.

Read more: The best Nikon DSLRs

A Nikon D760 update, therefore, would make a lot of sense. We would expect the D760 to sport a full-frame sensor with around 36MP, which would place it roughly halfway between the 24.3MP D610 and 45.7MP D850. 

4K video, a feature lacking on the D750, would also most likely make an appearance, and we would be very surprised to see it carry with the D750’s autofocus system when you consider the progress the company has made with the newer 153-point AF system found inside the D500 and D5 models.


Digital camera tips: 1. Always reset your camera settings

There are few things worse than taking what you think is a stunning picture, only to find your camera’s ISO and saturation were cranked right up from a previous shoot and you’ve missed the moment. Avoid this by checking – and resetting – all of your settings before moving from one picture-taking opportunity to the next.

Digital camera tips: 2. Format, not erase

Formatting your memory card wipes it clean and rewrites any pertinent camera information. Erasing your images does not. So always format your cards to minimise the risk of any data corruption.

Digital camera tips: 3. Update your firmware

Firmware is the in-camera software used for processing images, setting a whole range of parameters and even controlling what features are available to you. Check your camera manufacturer’s website to ensure your digital camera’s firmware is as up to date as possible.

Digital camera tips: 4. Charge your batteries

Don’t assume your camera’s battery is fully charged – make sure it is. Charge it before you go out so you’re certain there’s enough life in it, and invest in a spare battery if you regularly find yourself shooting beyond its capacity.

Digital camera tips: 5. Set the image size

Most times you’ll be shooting at the highest resolution your camera offers, regardless of what it is you’re photographing. But do you always need to? Sometimes a smaller image size might be all you need, and reducing the resolution not only means more images will fit on a memory card, but you can achieve a faster shooting rate, too. If sports photography is your thing, reducing the resolution will help you avoid delays as your camera clears its buffer.

Digital camera tips: 6. Raw, JPEG or both?

If you intend to do any manipulation or retouching, shooting raw is often the best solution thanks to its increased bit depth.

However, raw files are larger, so take longer for the camera to deal with, and you also need to process them before they can be printed.

JPEG files, on the other hand, are processed in-camera at the time of shooting, so you can print or share them immediately, and you’ll find that you can shoot a much longer burst of consecutive frames at a much quicker rate.

Providing you don’t want to make too many radical changes to an image after you’ve taken it, you may find you can’t tell the difference between a JPEG file and a raw one.

For the ultimate in choice, though, and when speed isn’t important, why not shoot both? Most digital cameras give you this option, and you can then decide what you want to do when you’re back at your computer. Just make sure you pack an extra memory card.

Digital camera tips: 7. Experiment with settings

When they’re not working on an assignment, professional photographers spend a lot of time testing. This could be testing a new lens to determine which aperture or focal length it performs best at; testing the ISO and white balance to see which options give the very best results; or even testing the dynamic range so you know the sensor’s limitations.

You can do exactly the same with your DSLR or mirrorless camera, so you know precisely where its strengths and weaknesses lie. This isn’t about looking for perfect shots – just experimenting with your kit to understand it better, or trying out new techniques that you can employ at a later date.

Digital camera tips: 8. Don’t skimp on a tripod

A good tripod is worth its weight in gold, so don’t be tempted by budget options. Pay £20 / $20 and it won’t last you long, or do its job properly. Dig deep for a decent tripod and it will give you many years of service, making it a sensible long-term investment. And don’t forget to take your tripod with you, either!

Digital camera tips: 9. Hand-held or tripod mounted?

The simple act of setting up your camera on a tripod will slow you down, and this can be enough to make you concentrate a little harder on what it is you’re photographing and what you hope to achieve. At the same time, locking your camera down for every shot you take can reduce your spontaneity, so don’t be afraid to mix it up from time to time. If you religiously use a tripod, set out without it and see what happens, and if you normally travel without one, take it with you to see how slowing yourself down affects the results you get.

Digital camera tips: 10. Impromptu camera supports

You don’t necessarily need a tripod to hold your camera steady – supporting it against a wall or tree will help you avoid camera shake, and a beanbag (or just a bag of rice) can also give you a more stable shooting platform.

Digital camera tips: 11. Straighten up

The word horizon is found in the word horizontal, and that’s precisely what it should be. If your digital camera’s got an in-camera level, use it. If not, invest just a few pounds or dolloars in a hotshoe-mounted spirit bubble. It will save you hours correcting your shots in Photoshop later. Most DSLRs and mirrorless cameras now have a grid that can be activated and superimposed over a Live View image on the rear LCD screen, making getting level horizons a breeze. 

Digital camera tips: 12. Double-check your kit

It might sound obvious, but check your camera bag if you’re going to be shooting away from home. You may have your camera, lenses and tripod, but if you use a quick-release tripod head, is the base-plate attached to the camera or the tripod? Have you got the right diameter adaptor ring if you use Cokin or Lee system filters. It’s these small things that are more likely to scupper a trip than the major elements of your kit.

Digital camera tips: 13. Autofocus or manual focus?

It’s all too easy to become over-reliant on your camera’s autofocus, and there are some situations where focusing manually is definitely a better option – pre-focusing to photograph a fast-moving subject on a race track, or focusing precisely for a detailed macro shot, for example.

Digital camera tips: 14. Which AF point(s) should you use?

DSLRs and mirrorless cameras may have a bewildering number of AF points to choose from as well as a wealth of focusing modes, from simple single point AF to much more advanced focus tracking. Make sure you spend time getting to grips with your camera’s AF system as this can prove invaluable before a big and important shoot. 

Digital camera tips: 15. Buying lenses

A bad lens will always be a bad lens, no matter what DSLR or mirrorless camera you attach it to. So before you decide that you’ve ‘outgrown’ your camera and need a ‘better’ one, ask yourself if investing in a new lens might be a better option instead? A few extra pixels and smarter features might sound enticing, but a faster maximum aperture and higher optical quality could go much further in helping you take better pictures with the camera you already have. 

Digital camera tips: 16. Manual lenses

There are thousands of lenses left over from the days of 35mm film, and as many DSLRs are ‘backwards compatible’ (most notably Nikon and Pentax) they can still be used in the digital age, while there are numerous adapters available for mirrorless cameras. Moreover, as many of them are dirt-cheap it’s a great way of expanding your focal length repertoire. But there is a downside.

Some lenses perform better than others, and the only real way of weeding out the good from the bad is to give them a go. In general, zoom lenses and wide-angle focal lengths tend to be the worst performers. In addition, there is the need to focus manually, and in-camera exposure metering can be unpredictable and unreliable.

That said, there are some cracking manual focus lenses out there, and in certain situations they can actually outperform contemporary low-cost zooms in terms of sharpness.

Digital camera tips: 17. Focal length

Wide-angle lenses can give the impression of increased distance between near and distant elements, while telephoto focal lengths appear to compress perspective. Consider this when you’re framing a shot and position yourself to use the focal length that’s best for the image, rather than simply choosing a focal length that fits everything in.

Digital camera tips: 18. Use the hyperfocal distance

If you want to maximise the depth of field in your shot at a given focal length, then focus manually at the hyperfocal distance; the point at which everything from half the hyperfocal distance to infinity will appear sharp.

Digital camera tips: 19. Check the frame edges

The majority of viewfinders don’t provide you with 100% coverage, so it’s easy for unwanted elements to creep into a shot. The only way to be certain is to check your camera’s LCD screen once the shot is taken. If there’s anything untoward in the frame, simply adjust your composition and shoot again.

Digital camera tips: 20. Shoot more than you need

Even with static subjects, consider shooting a burst of frames using your camera’s continuous shooting mode. Subtle variations in the light as clouds move across a landscape, or a portrait subject changing expression, are both examples of a ‘perfect moment’ that could be missed with just a single shot, so shoot a burst and pick the best frame later.

Digital camera tips: 21. Preset exposure modes

‘Serious’ photographers may frown upon them, but your DSLR’s preset modes shouldn’t be disregarded entirely, especially for candids. ‘Landscape’ mode will typically set a small aperture and boost saturation, while ‘Portrait’ mode combines a wide aperture with more muted colours. Both can be used beyond their intended purpose – it’s just a question of understanding what the preset parameters are and exploiting them creatively.


What are the best photo editing apps for enhancing your iPhone photos? With so many apps to choose from, how do you know which ones to use? In this article, you’ll discover the 10 best photo editor apps for iPhone. And we’ll help you choose the right photo editing apps for your needs.

Best Photo Editing Apps

1. Snapseed

Best For: All-purpose photo editing with precise control over color and exposure

  • Huge range of editing tools, yet very easy to use
  • Exposure, color, and sharpening adjustments
  • Crop, rotate, straighten, and perspective correction
  • Selective adjustments, brushes, and healing tool
  • Black & white, vintage, and texture filters
  • Portrait enhancement, lens blur, and vignette
  • Double exposure, frames, and text
  • Price: FREE

Best Photo Editing Apps

Snapseed is one of the most popular iPhone photo editing apps.

Why? Because it’s easy to use, even though it offers a powerful collection of editing tools. It’s also completely free to download and use!

This photo editor app is suitable for both complete beginners and experienced iPhone photographers.

With the Snapseed tools, you can easily improve exposure, color, and sharpness. And you can crop, rotate and straighten images.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Selective tools and brushes allow you to edit certain parts of your image. And the Healing tool is great for removing objects from your photos.

The Portrait tool is perfect for creating flawless portrait photos with smooth skin and sparkling eyes.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Snapseed also has a selection of filters to create different moods in your photos.

Filters make it easy to convert your photos to black and white or create a vintage look with textures.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you’re new to iPhone photography, Snapseed should be the first photo editor app you download. With this app, you’ll be able to create stunning edits that will dramatically improve your images.

Snapseed is available for FREE from the App Store. Unlike many other photo editing apps, there are no extra in-app purchases to pay for.

Learn how to use this fantastic app with our in-depth Snapseed photo editing tutorial.


Best For: Creating beautiful edits with elegant film-like filters

  • Subtle one-tap filter presets that create the look of classic film
  • Adjustable filter strength
  • Full set of 130+ filters available via an annual subscription
  • Editing tools for cropping, exposure, color, and sharpness
  • Built-in camera app with advanced manual controls
  • Price: FREE (with a subscription fee for additional filters and tools)

Best Photo Editing Apps

VSCO (pronounced visco) is another incredible photo editing app. In fact, it’s one of the best photo filter apps for iPhone.

The vast collection of VSCO filters allow you to create the look of classic film in your iPhone photos. These filters are perfect for adding a vintage feel to your images.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Unlike other apps where the filters can be overpowering, VSCO filters are subtle. Many of them have a soft, faded look for beautifully understated edits.

You can adjust the strength of the filters to suit your taste. And you can fine-tune the exposure or color using VSCO’s editing tools.

Best Photo Editing Apps

VSCO is FREE to download from the App Store. It comes with 10 free filter presets and a set of photo editing tools.

You can access the full range of over 130 filters, as well as additional editing tools, by subscribing to VSCO X membership ($19.99 a year).

Best Photo Editing Apps

Learn how to use VSCO with our in-depth tutorials:
VSCO App Tutorial: How To Shoot & Edit Beautiful iPhone Photos
How To Use VSCO Filters To Create Beautiful iPhone Photos

3. Afterlight 2

Best For: All-purpose photo editing with additional creative options

  • Exposure, color, and sharpening adjustments
  • Advanced tools such as curves, selective color, gradients, and blend modes
  • Dust and light leak overlays
  • Free filter packs by well-known mobile photographers
  • Double-exposure tool for blending images
  • Layers tool for adding text and artwork
  • Price: $2.99

Best Photo Editing Apps

Afterlight 2 is easy to use despite its comprehensive set of editing tools.

The app offers typical editing tools such as color, exposure, sharpness, and crop tools.

But it also has a set of advanced tools, such as curves and selective color. These allow you to fine-tune the colors and tones in your photos to get the very best out of your images.

Best Photo Editing Apps

The filters and overlays in Afterlight 2 are great for enhancing or changing the mood in your photos. The app comes with a basic set of filters, and you can add more collections of filters for free.

Best Photo Editing Apps

The customizable text and artwork is a fun way to add graphics to your images. And the double-exposure tool lets you create unique combinations of blended images.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you want to move beyond basic image editing, Afterlight 2 is an excellent place to start.

Afterlight 2 is available for $2.99 on the App Store. It promises to never have any extra in-app purchases or subscriptions. And the app is even updated with new free content every month.

Click here to learn how to create unique iPhone photo edits with Afterlight 2.

4. Enlight

Best For: Selective control over edits and artistic effects

  • Selective control over exposure, color, and details
  • Masking tool for seamless blending of effects
  • Crop, rotate, straighten, and perspective correction
  • Filters, two-tone gradients, light leaks, and vignettes
  • Black & white, paint, and sketch effects
  • Clone tool for removing unwanted defects
  • Double-exposure, tilt-shift, and photo montages
  • Drawing tools, text, borders, and frames
  • Price: $3.99

Best Photo Editing Apps

Enlight is the perfect app for getting creative with your editing.

As well as traditional editing tools and filters, it has a fantastic selection of artistic effects. You can turn a picture into a drawing or painting, and add unique design elements to your photos.

Best Photo Editing Apps

The Mask tool allows you to apply effects to just certain parts of an image. This gives you ultimate control over your editing.

Best Photo Editing Apps

You can also create double-exposures and fake-miniature tilt-shifts. And you can display your favorite images in a beautiful collage.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Whether you want to perform a simple edit or create an artistic masterpiece, you can do it all with Enlight!

Enlight is available for $3.99 from the App Store.

Click here for an in-depth Enlight tutorial with step-by-step videos.

5. TouchRetouch

Best For: Removing unwanted blemishes and objects from your photos

  • Quickly remove unwanted objects for a cleaner composition
  • Brush and lasso tools for accurate object selection
  • Remove dust spots, wires, people, and other objects
  • Remove blemishes and smooth out wrinkles in portrait photos
  • Duplicate objects using the clone tool
  • Price: $1.99

Best Photo Editing Apps

Many photoshop apps offer the ability to remove unwanted elements from a photo. But this is the sole purpose of TouchRetouch. And it’s still one of the easiest and most effective apps to use.

Simply use your finger to highlight the object you want to remove. The app automatically replaces that object with pixels from the surrounding area.

The Blemish Remover tool is perfect for creating flawless portrait photos.

Best Photo Editing Apps

And the Line Removal tool makes it easy to remove electricity and telephone cables from your image.

Best Photo Editing Apps

It might take a few attempts to remove complex elements. But TouchRetouch makes it easy to start over if you’re not happy with the results.

TouchRetouch is available for $1.99 on the App Store.

Click here for the ultimate guide to removing objects from your photos with TouchRetouch.

Or click here to discover more of the best photo retouch apps!

7 Hidden iPhone Camera Features

As it turns out, the most important iPhone camera features are completely hidden from regular iPhone users. That’s why we created this free video revealing 7 hidden iPhone camera features that every photographer should use. Click here to watch this video. 

7 Hidden iPhone Camera Features

6. Instagram

Best For: Enhancing your images right before you share them

  • Good selection of color and black & white filters
  • Exposure, color, and sharpening adjustments
  • Crop, rotate, straighten, and perspective correction
  • Vignette and tilt-shift effects
  • Give your photos a final polish before sharing them on Instagram
  • Price: FREE

Best Photo Editing Apps

Do you share your photos on Instagram? If so, you definitely shouldn’t overlook the editing tools in this app.

Instagram doesn’t have the same range of editing tools as apps like Snapseed and Enlight. But if you only want to make basic adjustments, it may be all you need.

It has a good range of color and black and white filters for changing the look and feel of your image.

Best Photo Editing Apps

There’s also a handy set of editing tools. You can adjust exposure, color, and sharpness. There are options to crop, rotate, straighten, and correct perspective. And you can add a vignette or tilt-shift effect.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you prefer to edit your photos in a different app, you can still apply an Instagram filter before sharing.

Instagram is available for FREE from the App Store.

Check out our in-depth tutorial on Instagram Photo Editing.

7. Adobe Lightroom CC

Best For: Precise fine-tuning of color and exposure with advanced editing tools

  • Powerful set of editing tools within a simple user interface
  • One-tap presets for quick edits
  • Advanced editing tools such as curves and color mix
  • Selective adjustments and perspective correction
  • Adobe Creative Cloud syncs your edits between iPhone, iPad, computer, and web
  • Price: FREE (with a subscription fee for additional features)

Best Photo Editing Apps

Adobe Lightroom CC gives you a powerful, yet simple solution for editing your photos.

Lightroom is suitable for both beginners and advanced users.

The one-tap filter presets offer a quick and easy way to enhance your images. And the simple adjustment sliders let you tweak exposure, color, and detail.

Best Photo Editing Apps

But you can go much further than this. The advanced adjustment tools, such as Curves, Color Mix, and Split Tone offer ultimate control over your editing.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you’re familiar with editing your photos on a computer using Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop, you’ll feel right at home with this app.

Adobe Lightroom CC is FREE to download from the App Store. But you’ll need to pay to access the premium features.

The premium upgrade unlocks tools such as selective adjustments and perspective correction. It also gives you access to your photos across all your devices via Adobe Creative Cloud.

8. Mextures

Best For: Applying textures, grains, and light leaks for beautiful creative edits

  • Grit, grain, grunge, and vintage film textures
  • Analog light leaks and beautiful gradients
  • Stack and blend effects using layers
  • Fine-tune images with editing tools and filter presets
  • Save, share, and import “formulas”
  • Price: $2.99 (with in-app purchases)

Best Photo Editing Apps

Mextures is a fantastic app for applying textures to your iPhone photos. It also has a range of other effects including grain, light leaks, and gradients.

You can add wonderful mood and visual interest to your iPhone photos in Mextures. It’s easy to create unique edits by combining and blending different effects.

Best Photo Editing Apps

The app also has a set of standard editing tools and filters for fine-tuning your image.

If you’re new to Mextures, you can start by using the wide range of preset “formulas.” You can save and share your own formulas, and even import formulas from other Mextures users.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Mextures is available for $2.99 on the App Store.

Learn how to use Mextures to add wonderful textures to your iPhone photos.

9. Lens Distortions

Best For: Enhancing your photos with sunlight, lens flares, rain, snow, and fog

  • Add beauty and drama to your shots with natural sunlight and lens flares
  • Create atmosphere and drama with rain, snow, or fog
  • Frame your subject or blur the edges with elegant glass textures
  • Layer several different overlays on a single image
  • Adjust the opacity, brightness, and color of each overlay
  • Price: FREE (with in-app purchases for additional effects)

Best Photo Editing Apps

There are many apps that add light and weather effects to your photos, but Lens Distortions is one of the best.

Its high-quality overlays include sunlight, lens flares, rain, snow, and fog. There are also shimmer effects and glass elements to add sparkle or blur to your image.

Best Photo Editing Apps

For a unique look, you can layer up different effects on your image.

Sliders allow you to adjust the opacity, brightness, contrast, and color of each overlay. You can make the elements stand out for a bold look, or tone them down so they blend in.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Lens Distortions is available for FREE from the App Store. The app comes with a basic collection of overlays. More are available as in-app purchases – and they’re definitely worth it.

10. Superimpose X

Best For: Creating unique digital art by combining and blending images

  • Combine two or more photos to create a composite image
  • Perfect for replacing the background of a photo
  • Create stunning double-exposure and fantasy-style images
  • Blend textures onto an image for an arty look
  • Add filters, blur, shadows, and other creative effects
  • Variety of masking tools for selecting parts of an image
  • Price: $4.99

Best Photo Editing Apps

Superimpose X is the perfect app for combining and blending several photos into a single composite image.

It has a good choice of masking tools for selecting different kinds of subject. The Refine Hair tool is particularly useful for selecting hair in portrait photos.

Best Photo Editing Apps

You can adjust the blend mode and opacity of each layer to control how the images blend together.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Superimpose X has a wide range of tools for editing each layer. You can use filters, adjustments, shadows, blur, gradients, and distortions. Or add an artistic touch with the brush tool.

Best Photo Editing Apps

With Superimpose X, the creative possibilities are endless. Your imagination is the only limit!

Superimpose X is available for $4.99 on the App Store.

Click here to discover how to use Superimpose X to blend multiple iPhone photos.

Best Photo Editing Apps: How To Choose The Right Apps For You

Now that you’ve discovered the 10 best photo editing apps, how do you choose the right apps for you?

Read on and let us help you decide…

If you’re new to photo editing, the best photo editor app is Snapseed. That said, it has a wide range of editing tools, so it’s suitable for more advanced users too.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you like the idea of using one-tap filters to create classic, understated edits, VSCO is a great choice.

For more advanced editing tools, such as curves and selective color adjustments, try Adobe Lightroom CC or Afterlight 2.

TouchRetouch is a great app to have in your collection. Use it whenever you want to remove unwanted objects from your iPhone photos.

Lens Distortions is fantastic for adding realistic sunlight, lens flares, rain, snow, and fog. These effects are great for adding beauty and drama to your landscape photos.

Best Photo Editing Apps

Do you enjoy getting creative with your edits? If so, Enlight might be the perfect app for you. Afterlight 2 also has a good selection of creative tools.

Mextures is the best photo editing app for adding textures and light leaks.

Best Photo Editing Apps

If you want to create truly unique artwork, including fantasy-style images and double-exposures, try Superimpose X.

Do you share your photos on Instagram? Then why not use its filters and editing tools to give your images a final polish before sharing.


There’s a lot of exciting new lenses coming in 2019 (and some that have already been released).

Whether you’re a Nikon shooter, a Sony shooter, a Canon shooter, or somewhere in between, there’s a lot of new tech to drool over when it comes to lenses.

Below, I’ve outlined just a few of the most exciting lenses coming to market this year.

Need a new lens but don’t have the budget to buy new? Shop for a quality used lens for your camera.

New Lenses for 2019: NIKKOR Z 14-30mm f/4S 

nikon 14 30mm with camera image

At CES 2019 in January, Nikon unveiled a new lens for their Z-system cameras, a NIKKOR Z 14-30mm f/4S.

This is the first wide-angle zoom for the Z6 and Z7 cameras, which undoubtedly has excited Nikon landscape shooters around the globe.

nikon 14 30mm image  

At just 17 ounces, this lens is ultra-light and makes an excellent companion for photographers that need a capable lens but don’t want to lug around a big, heavy kit.

It has 14 elements (which includes four EDs and four aspherical elements), an anti-reflective Nano Crystal Coat to reduce flare and ghosting, and a fluorine coating to prevent fingerprints from gunking up the front and rear elements. It’s also the first 14mm lens for Nikon full frame cameras that accepts lens filters.

 nikon 14 30mm zoom image

As one would expect, Nikon has incorporated its Stepping Motor technology, which means this is a quiet, fast lens that photographers will appreciate when they’re out shooting and need to keep a low profile. Videographers will appreciate its quietness as well as it won’t interfere with getting high-quality audio.

Keep an eye out for the lens coming to market this April for about $1,300.

New Lenses for 2019: Venus Optics Laowa 9mm f/2.8 for DJI Drones

new lenses 2019 venus optics 2 image

If you’ve got a DJI drone as part of your kit, you might be interested in the new 9mm f/2.8 lens from Venus Optics.

The lens has 15 elements in 10 groups, including three extra-low dispersion elements and two aspherical elements. It also has a 113-degree view and a seven-blade aperture.

 new camera lenses 2019 venus optics image

The lens is a scant 2.36-inches long and weighs less than half a pound, which is great for all those drone photography adventures you have planned.

It’s the widest lens available for DJI’s Inspire 2 drones and their X7 cameras, so if it’s wide-angle you want, this is the lens for you.

The Venus Optics Laowa 9mm f/2.8 lens is currently available for $499.

Need to get rid of old lenses you no longer use? Sell them and use the proceeds to buy new gear! List your old lenses for sale now.

New Lenses for 2019: New Canon RF Lenses for EOS R System

At CES earlier this year, Canon announced six new lenses for their EOS R mirrorless system.

Running the gamut from a 15-35mm f/2.8L to an 85mm f/1.2L to a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM, there is certainly a lot to choose from if you’ve adopted the EOS R system.

These lenses are not for sale yet, and some are still in development. However, you can get a sneak peek at what they look like and some of their features in the video above by Newsshooter.

Again, though not all the lenses outlined here are available yet, they will be soon. That’s exciting news, especially for Canon and Nikon shooters that have been waiting for a larger lens choice for the mirrorless cameras each company released late last year.

Stay tuned for more news and notes on upcoming lenses and other gear!



Canon UK ambassador and renowned wildlife and aviation photographer Andy Rouse has been posting images he took “using some new kit” on his Twitter and Instagram accounts, raising suspicions that a new Canon camera could be released in the near future.

Andy Rouse@wildmanrouse

A little gift for you all this weekend. Shot last night, it’s a very different image of a cuckoo using some new kit. No questions yet as I won’t answer!!! Just enjoy the pic.

Rouse, of course, gives no information away on the camera itself, except that it’s capable of shooting at a 30fps burst speed which, he says, he had to drop down to 5fps as he “was taking too many sharp shots”.

The possibilities

The Canon rumor mill has been rife with whispers of a new DSLR on the way. Talk of a 32MP Canon DSLR began only a few days ago, while we’ve been expecting to hear more about the Canon EOS 1D X Mark III since the end of last year.