LEGEND: PATRICK COX

Cox was born in Edmonton, Alberta, to a ballerinaCanadian mother and linguist English father, Cox was educated locally, except for periods when his father’s work led the family to postings in Nigeria, Chad and Cameroon.[1] Cox eventually graduated from school in Edmonton Canada and moved to Toronto on his own when he was 17.

Early careerEdit

At the age of 19, Cox produced his first pair of shoes, for the Toronto-based designer Loucas Kleanthous, who suggested Cox consider a career as a designer.[1] An interest in British fashion led Cox to study at Cordwainer‘s Technical College, London,[1] a design school that was absorbed into the London College of Fashion in 2000. Cox studied at Cordwainer’s from 1983 to 1985. He graduated with merit in July 1985.

During his time as a student in London, Cox probably spent as much time in nightclubs as he did studying.[1] Through his partying Cox became friends with several well-known designers, such as the legendary Vivienne Westwood. As a result, in 1984, Westwood asked Cox to design shoes for her “Clint Eastwood” collection.[1] One of the shoes that Cox created incorporated a 4-inch platform that would become the prototype of a 9-inch pair later worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell, when she famously fell during a Westwood fashion show in Paris, France in 1993.[1] In his second year of college Cox designed and handmade fluorescent fringed moccasins for the celebrated Body Map brand of David Holah and Stevie Stewart.

Personal life

Cox used to date Canadian journalist, entrepreneur, and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé.[1] Cox funded the launch of Brûlé’s Wallpaper magazine that was subsequently sold to Time Warner in 1997. They split up in 1997.

Working life

Cox set up his own company designing shoes in 1985, and in 1986 designed the shoes for John Galliano‘s “Fallen Angels” collection.[1]Subsequently, Cox launched his own Patrick Cox label, adopting the fleur-de-lys logo. Cox continued to work with Galliano for two more seasons. He also produced the shoes for numerous designers’ fashion shows including Anna Sui, John Flett, Alistair Blair and Lanvin Haute Couture to name but a few.

In 1991 Cox opened his first shop opposite the Peter Jones department store in Sloane Square, Chelsea, a well-known fashion district of London.[1] In 1993, Cox marketed his first collection designed for the mass market. This diffusion range called “Wannabe” increased the company’s semi annual sales from 2,000 to 200,000 pairs.[1] Cox has credited his initial interest in moccasins to fellow designer Richard James whom had asked Cox to design him a modern loafer to accessorise one of his early 1990’s fashion shows.

In 1994, Cox opened his first Parisian store on the right bank, followed in 1995 by a second store in London on Sloane Street, a new store on New York’s Madison Avenue and a second store in Paris on the left bank. During this time, Cox was twice awarded Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. 1998 saw Cox move his design office and production from the UK to Civitanova, in the Italian  Marche, an area known for shoe manufacture.

From his early association with Vivienne Westwood onwards, Cox developed a cult like status in Japan and in 1996 signed a 10-year licensing deal with leading Japanese luxury department store group Isetan. This deal saw the opening of more than 40 shop in shops across Japan and a whole range of licensed Japanese products including ready-to-wear, bags, jewellery and watches.

Cox was approached by the French fashion footwear house Charles Jourdan, and in January 2003 he was appointed Creative Director, his brief being to rejuvenate the brand. After 3 years of successful collaboration, Cox decided to move on to concentrate on the development of his own label.

The Hong Kong duty free company King Power Group took a controlling interest in the Patrick Cox company in 2006. Cox left the eponymous firm the following year and the entire business, except for a few continuing Japanese licenses was closed in 2008.

In September 2010, Cox opened ‘Cox Cookies & Cake’, a pâtisserie in London’s Soho district, with Eric Lanlard to whom he was introduced by Elizabeth Hurley. In keeping with the area’s history of seedy business, the décor was black and neon while the staff wore studded leather aprons. Delicacies included titty and bum cupcakes along with his mother Maureen’s recipe for traditional Canadian Nanaimo bars. After two successful years trading Cox decided to close the business to return to shoe design.

In 2011 Cox was approached to design for the Italian shoe giant Geox. The resulting GEOX Designed by Patrick Cox capsule collection incorporated his witty ironic British take on design.

In 2016 Cox returned to fashion with his Lathbridge collection of shoes and leather goods. The brand name is Cox’s middle name and the company logo is the bulldog, inspired by Cox’s pet English bulldogsCaesar and Brutus.

BROGUES

It’s been said in some quarters that this is the decade of the trainer – but ultra-elegant bad boy brogues, which are just the right mix of smart and casual, would beg to differ…

Though the last few years have been all about wearing running trainers, badminton sneakers and tennis shoes in both formal and more casual contexts, now – smarter shoes are making a return.

It’s a shift which comes in tandem with a general return to elegance on the world’s runways – from the fluid double breasted suits by Kim Jones at Dior, to the streetwear-inspired tailored two pieces at Louis Vuitton, dressing up has never been more, well, dope.

If a full dress suit with spats is perhaps a step too far, we’d advise breaking yourself in gently with a pair of elegant-yet-serviceable brogues. Defined by the perforated decoration around the upper of a shoe’s visible edges, it’s possible to get Derby brogues, Oxford brogues and even monk brogues, meaning they’re among the most adaptable shoes you can have in your footwear arsenal.

What’s more, a good pair of brogues will elegantly bridge that gap between smart and casual which a trainer, quite simply, cannot. A pair of low slung black brogues with a black suit will look elegant and work-ready. a pair of triple-welted tan brogues, on the other hand will look great worn with jeans.

HOW TO WEAR CUBAN HEELS

What can a man wear with cuban heels? Well. Put simply the answer is confidence. Men are in a world where they can now wear whatever they want but if anyone does wonder about men in heels let us start with a history lesson. Ninth century Persian soldiers going to war were known to wear heels on horseback. The heel on a mans boot was functional at this point for standing strong in stirrups whilst on a horse. The heel allowed a stance enabling the soldier to pull back the arrow and fire. This is the first depiction of men in heels which was found on a ceramic bowl. The idea came across to the west when all things Persian became fashionable. The French aristocracy popularised heels for men and one need only consider Louis XIV and his whopping (10cm) high heels to illustrate this. The fact that he could do nothing was testament to his status as a royal. He even dyed the soles of the shoes he wore with red dye as this was the most expensive money could buy. Louboutin, we know where you got the idea from!

Over the years, heels became the domain of women in the main. However, the 60s and the freedom that came with it became a hot bed of experimenting and changing styles. At this point the Kings Road was heaving with trend setters wanting to emulate the rock legends who were wearing the chelsea boot at the time. It was The Beatles who went to Anello and Davide (esteemed shoemakers) and asked for the chelsea to be made with a cuban heel. Now the origin of this heel is of course Latin American. Male dancers wore cuban heeled shoes and boots to perform the tango or flamenco.

So why not create some drama with your look. If we think about the 60s and the icons we mentioned and also the mod scene, we can reference how a really sharp tailored suit in charcoal or grey would look with black cuban heel boots. There are many men who can wear a suit today with cuban heel shoes or boots and ooze confidence and style. We would recommend a good fit in terms of the suit and tapered trousers or slim fit as the cuban heels tend to have an elegant long silhouette which needs a streamline outfit to compliment it. Of course, if you want traditional, this is not for you but you can look super smart yet cool original with this style.

The indie look sits perfectly with this style of boot. Look back to Jagger and now to The Horrors, Noel Fielding with Bowie and Prince in between, we can see the subversive underground look you can get with this boot. Think tight skinny jeans and a loose shirt with a buckle belt in between.  A loose scarf dangling around the neck and a leather jacket to hand to throw over it. Go forth and enjoy!

CHAPMAN AND MOORE

Chapman & Moore has a long and changing history…

 

It started life in 1794 on Old Bond Street as a gentleman’s accessory supplier.  

Its then was owned by a prestigious Northampton shoemaker where it formed a collection of classic English welted shoes for sale in mainland Europe under the Chapman & Moore label.

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When the brand became dormant we acquired the name.  This brings it to its current life…

 

We decided to relaunch the label in tandem with opening our welted factory… (that’s a whole other story!). 

 

Our collection is a combination of Welted classics and cemented construction menswear. 

 

The aim of Chapman & Moore is to make great shoes accessible to all. 

 

Any question do feel free to contact them:

Chapman and Moore

UNDANDY 15′ TOM RIPLEY

15_tom_ripley

Patricia Highsmith’s elusive character of Tom Ripley in The Talented Mr. Ripley, is a masterful study in psychopathy. Shown off particularly well in Anthony Mingella’s film version, Ripley’s style combines classic tailoring with casual resort wear set against a Southern Italian background with a distinct American twist. Cultivate this look with our carefully crafted 15’ Oxfords in Brownlee patent leather and sand suede.

With a classic fit and elegant long vamp, our ’15’ last will add just the right amount of Italian flair to your look. Handcrafted with care in Portugal.

Find these and also the incredible design your own and customise features at:

Undandy